About Me
|
Every man past his forties
has become a certified rogue!
|
Chinese Proverb
|
My mother was the daughter of a Holocaust
victim. She was what the Nazis called a “mischling.”
Her
mother,
too,
had
problems
to
certify
as
a
person
of
an
Aryan
pedigree;
she
was
raised
in
an
orphanage
in
Baden,
a
spa
in
the
South
of
Germany.
Granny
was
tenacious
and
indestructible
and
very
loud.
When I slept over in her
place, she
was living with a Polish refugee, a rabbi and tailor of fine clothing.
Why
everybody was calling him “Schlemiel” is not quite clear, I don’t
recall his
first name. When the two of us talked, it was always about the shaggy
mare he’d
left behind in Poland. How her head used to vigorously nod up and down
with
every step. Horses were the chosen topic between him and me and
visiting him
was my alibi when I went out to play with the other kids in the rubble
of the
ruins. After Schlemiel’s death, already in her eighties and bent over
her cane
almost at a right angle, granny still made her own arrangements and
traveled
unaccompanied to India, the country of her honeymoon and years of
happiness,
before her first husband, old Cohn, had made his fatal decision to
repatriate
to the fatherland. It gives an idea of her mental toughness and how she
managed
to keep her three surviving daughters away from the unwanted attention
of the
Nazis.
After the war, in 1946 or 1947, her
youngest daughter fell in love with an allied officer. The first time
they laid
eyes on each other was at the cinema where she worked ushering the
people with
a torch to their seats. After five weeks the two did something that was
strictly against the rules in occupied Berlin. They fraternized. In
1949, this
became the cause for my existence.
According to Aristotle, we are not yet
fully human before the fortieth day after birth, the moment when most
babies
learn to gratify their parents with a little peal of laughter. I do
remember
been wheeled about in a pram, but this was of course later, when I
already was
a toddler and grew up to become this insufferably cheerful boy on the
photographs with blond curls and ringlets running down to the
shoulders – I absolutely hated to have a haircut. I once
overheard my mother talking of the winter in ’49. The cold was
murderous and
tore off the flesh from your bones. There was nothing money could buy
to heat
the home. So my mother and her friend, Frau Nolte, went out on a
pillaging
spree. The friend was a neighbor living in a studio further down the
corridor.
I still recall a very tall woman, smelling of marzipan and mothballs;
now and
then she gave me a drop of milk in a tiny demitasse and our dog once
stole a
fish from her. The two women had to travel some distance before they
found a
fence with enough planks left to tear off, break and kick the wood to
size and
pack it underneath me into the pram. My contribution was to lie on top,
swaddled in blankets, and look cute. My first career-move as a thief!
It was a
long way home and the two women lugged the pram down the stairs to the
underground. A cop, wearing this shako with cockade and batch,
approached, and, as the friendly servant to the public, he
offered
a hand to carry the pram. The moment he lifted his end of the pram he
realized
of course that something here was wrong. Our neighbor saw the change in
his
face: “Yeah,” she said, talking down
on him with a booming voice, “it’s a
heavy baby, isn’t it?” The law looked up to her, kept quiet and
continued
helping the women down the stairs and then departed with a curt salute.
Our home was once a baron’s city mansion.
Along a windowless corridor, we and five other families occupied rooms
with
tall ceilings and stucco ornaments of seashells and chubby little boys.
The loo was an improvised affair outdoors
in the backyard.
From time to time some kind of hiss, a
drizzle from somewhere behind or inside the wall would send a reminder
that the
structure was crumbling. Nobody heeded the warning until one day a
patch of
stucco fell from the ceiling and missed my mother’s buttocks by a
hair’s
breadth as she bent over at the stove. I saw it from my high chair by
the
window. Behind the house the court for drying the laundry and beating
the dust
out of the carpets opened to a weed infested bombing site. Beating the
stuffing
out of your carpet is a rather therapeutic activity – much better than
a
session on the couch with Dr. Freud. My mother took down the carpet at
least
twice a week for a comprehensive thrashing; I could hear the thumping
echo
ricocheting in the narrow confines of the backyard. Towards the bombing
site,
at the bottom of an improvised and rather steep stairway, there was a
flowerbed
fringed with bricks set in a jagged saw-pattern. I fell over on these
stairs and
hit my head on one of those pointy bricks. When I came around I woke up
with stitches on my forehead; the scar is now barely
visible.
My earliest out-of-house memory is me dangling my feet from a seat
close to an elevated podium with ropes all around and two man facing
each other in the middle, both dressed in olive green tricots that
leave the shoulders bare and reveal some of the hair on their chests.
The light was blindingly bright and the guy on the right threw a punch
at the other’s face, I could clearly see that his nose was dented on
the
ridge. Without flinching the recipient was swiping his brow with the
thing on his hand that looked to me like the brown earthenware vessel
my
mother used to store her salt and hone her kitchen-knife (a worn blade,
more like a paring-knife) on the vessel’s rim.
In the ring, there was such an earthenware vessel on every hand (I
don’t
recall a referee); this was the first time I was confronted with boxing
gloves and I had no idea. The two tried to land a hook to the
adversary’s body at
the same time and the two gloves meet halfway, I imagined with a loud
clang, no doubt it must have been earthenware vessels, what else could
it be? I
turned my head to the man sitting on my right. He jumped up shouting
something and snapped his fingers at the two guys in the ring. This man
was my father. A younger, less pudgy father than I use to remember:
this
fellow here had coal-black hair and the toned limbs of a boxer, one
that is coming at you from below, head first and determined to get
through to your short ribs, come what may. That I remember. For me, my
father was and always will be remembered as a fighter. He was a
member of
his unit’s boxing squad and he also played ping-pong. He had ambition
and a
good forehand while I only play a so-so backhand and somehow lack the
killer
instinct. Still standing, my
father looked down
to me, smiling but also with a strangely calculating look, as if he
tried to figure out something. I saw him moving his lips, but what was
he saying? Whatever it was, the noise all around us – initially
distinct
screams and calls suddenly uniting in a throaty roar and then ebbing
away in single calls and screams – must have drowned out what my father
was trying to say. I only remember the boyish smile. Unfortunately I
can’t tell you how the bout had ended. But I still like to watch a good bout.
When Muhammad
Ali was
still Cassius Clay he was truly a picture of grace, and fast,
unbelievably
fast. It’s a pity that they don’t show the old black and white reels
more
often. When my father took me to this event I must have just crawled out of my
infantile amnesia.
So strange!
Why is it, that we lose all our memories from the first four years of
our lives? What is the function of this incomplete amnesia? Yes,
incomplete: we don’t need to relearn how to walk or brush up on our
toilet training, thank you very much; we already know how to speak! Or is it the speaking that is adding a
new dimension to our faculties
of remembering, the element of
time – past, present and future? The next recollection is I on an
improvised child’s seat screwed to the frame of my father’s bicycle. We
were pedaling homewards through a city in ruins.
The day was overhung and the odd raindrop
was hitting my face. My
biggest
impression
from
this
period
had
a
surprisingly
stealthy
gait
for the gigantic size of his
legs; legs like the pillars of a temple. His name was Shantih and he
had bristles
on his furrowed forehead and slightly smelled of urine. My grandmother
had found work
at the zoo, and I was brought out to visit her.
We met at the elephants’ enclosure and
the women were talking when they brought out Shantih and geared him up
for the
day ahead. The animal was employed as a people carrier, lumbering along
with
hordes of squealing kids on his back. Standing close to the elephant, I
reached
out and began to pummel his enormous leg with the palm of my hand.
Suddenly I
felt a tight grip around my chest, lost ground under my feet and was
lifted up
towards an inspecting eye. I was too surprised to feel fear and Shantih
had a
good hard look at this bundle of stunned petulance before he gently set
me down
again. He and I became friends. For the rest of the season I saw him
almost
every morning and he lifted me up to his back and patiently listened to
what I
had to tell him. I liked to pull at his bristles and his ears. He
didn’t mind.
One day his handler didn’t allow me to get near. The animal was in the
must and
incessantly weaving from side to side. The smell was intense; it was
the last
time I’ve seen Shantih. My father was transferred to Bavaria and
I
entered school.
Bavaria was
(still is?) a catholic country with a capital "C" and no
anti-clerical tradition whatsoever. Well, that is not quite true.
Johann Adam Weishaupt (1748 –
1830) was born in Ingolstadt. Weishaupt was the
founder of the
Illuminati; Johann Adam Freiherr von Ickstatt (1702 –
1776), a prominent
figure of the
Enlightenment in Bavaria, was his godfather and educator. So many
names, so many unknowns, I am
afraid, but
the man has left a mark on our world and the great George
Washington knew it. He said: “It was not
my intention to doubt that, the Doctrines of the Illuminati, and
principles of
Jacobinism had not spread in the United States. On the contrary, no one
is more
truly satisfied of this fact than I am,” and very well he might –
the
first president of the United States was a Free Mason and Illuminati
himself.
After Weishaupt went public with his intention, “to do what
the heads of the ecclesiastical and secular authorities
ought to have done by virtue of their offices,” and “at
a time, when there is no end of abusing and making game of secret
societies, I shall make use of this human foible for a real and worthy
goal,
for the benefit of people,” he was forced to leave Bavaria and
settled in
Gotha,
half an hour’s walk away from the home of Johann Wolfgang von Goethe.
Weishaupt published a Complete History of
the Persecutions of the Illuminati in Bavaria (1785), and An Apology for the Illuminati (1786). Of course
none of this
ever
filtered down to us kids in school. Nor did anybody mention the strict
Catholic
upbringing of many top Nazis coming from this region, like Heinrich
Himmler.
The intensity these lederhosen people habitually attached to religion
could be
pretty scary. On every wall there hung a crucifix, at school, in the
shops, at
the crossroads. I
guess my crush on Buddhism at the age of nine was a reaction to all this. The
infatuation
ended in yawns over the endless litanies to dissociate
yourself from your attachments and so shield yourself from suffering.
My attachments
define who I am. If I
suffer for
it, well, that is the price to be paid for existing and be somebody,
anybody at all. There
is no
such thing as a free lunch. The motto on the Sympsons’ coat of arms
is “nil desperandum,” never give
up, and not:
“Better don’t try.” I think what really had put me off was
this underhanded way of labeling as “suffering” what makes it a joy to
be alive: food, girls, the arts, thinking, and just pottering about.
On
the public holidays my parents and I watched from the window the
Catholics walk in procession
behind their priest, a balding
man decked in
heavy
brocade. He seemed to be
hiding his face behind the monstrance, a
reliquary
with nothing but a wafer in it, supposed to be the Christ’s living
flesh. When
the procession had past, the road was clear to cross over to where our
car was
parked and like almost every Sunday we set out for – what was the
expression? – “a spot of motoring.”
Along
the way we stopped for lunch in the towns surrounding the area. Towards
the
South you could see the Alps looming, sometimes letting through the
Sirocco
from Africa. It affects the local microclimate and many
people have a migraine on such day, the hospitals even suspend surgery.
Only many
years later
I discovered that our weekly excursions – by whose design I cannot tell
– more or less followed the itinerary of Monsieur Montaigne who’d
traveled the very same region some four hundred years earlier. His book
made me
realize the changes this once hospitable region of Bavaria had
undergone
since
the religious wars. After eating we indulged my mother and stared at
the loud
colors and histrionic displays of the local Baroque churches. Well,
they are
pretty. “Look at this flatulent cherub;
this one, he blows the horn,” my mother said. I thought of the
chubby
little boys with tiny penises on the stucco ceiling in Berlin. I think
it was in 1959, when my father went to a jewelry
shop to
buy my mother a ring. The shop belonged to the goldsmith from
the ground floor of the same apartment block where we were living; a
man with a
ruddy complexion, watery blue eyes, and as soft-spoken as a
hummingbird. The
patter of small talk over the merchandise on the counter took a turn to
politics and this neighbor dropped the unguarded remark that “next time there will be not that many left.”
My mother overheard this, and she made a fist – not threatening just
squeezing the thumb underneath the fingers – something I have often
seen her
doing, when she felt insecure or uncomfortable. We left the shop rather
suddenly. Later my father found out, that in a former life, the
hummingbird had
been an SS-Hauptsturmführer. (This was
the only time ever I saw my father uncertain of what to do next. My
habitual
indecisiveness is not a trait I've inherited from him.)
School
was not my favorite thing. I assimilated letters rather slow and with
dyslexic
quirks in the “q,” “p,” “g” and “d”
department, and not just when
writing longhand. These letters are still my most common typos. I later
learned that this is somehow related to my difficulties of
spontaneously working out that “left,”
means
going
left
and
“right”
going right. Sometimes I heard voices shout at me. I turned around, and
there was nobody.
The
episodes ended at the age of
seven, after I had finished
reading my first book.
It was Cooper’s Deer Slayer.
After entering Grammar school I shook off
all my learning handicaps virtually from one day to the next. Don’t ask
me how.
I developed a habit of doing my
homework in the
last ten minutes of the previous lesson, shielded from sight by a
barricade of books. My desk was at the back of the classroom. Naturally
the
teacher was craving my attention and bombarded my desk with
a
well-aimed piece of chalk. But I really couldn’t help him here;
I had to finish homework. Nevertheless I was asked to transfer to a
desk in front. Guess what: I was suddenly in
a zone
of calm and peace and could work on my homework undisturbed. Everything
was right under the teacher’s eyes, yet he was far too occupied
supervising
the unruly desks at the back
– a valuable lesson in the art of misdirection.
I began perusing my parents’ rather odd
collection of books, most of it unsuitable for children; my father was
a
voracious reader of mysteries and crime stories but his absolute
favorite were the Hornblower
novels by C.S. Forester (1899 –
1966). Until his
dying day he returned to them time and again; I
read them, too. There was also a
disheveled Youngster’s
Encyclopedia from 1928, with
photographs from the interior of a gigantic zeppelin and blueprints for
a
winged box kite of about my own size that carried a camera and could do
aerial
photography. Mind you, 1928! A little later I read Emil
and
the
Detectives. It was followed by Tintin’s
Adventures in the Jungles of the Andes, a comic book. The
next book was an enormous tome, and most of it was not meant for young
readers.
It comprised a translation of the Völsunga
Saga; the Edda, Grimms’ Fairy Tales,
the
Legends of King Charlemagne, Musäus’
ironic and dry Legends of Rübezahl,
Gottfried August Bürger's Wondrous Tales
of the Campaigns and Adventures at Sea and Land of Baron of
Münchhausen,
mixed with often lewd legends from the crusades – I got erections over
Monica in a story of a ménage à trois. The death of
Bayard, the battle charger
of Count Raymond, moved me to tears. Bayard was a horse of miraculous
strength;
he could carry all four of the brothers who resisted Charlemagne in
their
castle of Monte Alban.
In the end the seditious brothers had to yield to
overwhelming force.
The terms of
surrender demanded the horse to die. With millstones around neck and
feet, the stallion was
pushed
into the river. Bayard struggled to the surface, turned his head and
looked
for his
master. The eyes of the horse and of the count met, and Bayard gained
the strength to clamber back on dry land. So the King ordered Count
Raymond to look
away next
time. Burdened with even more
millstones the horse was
pushed back
into the river. Again Bayard emerged from the water. He looked for his
master and whinnied. Count Raymond
wept, but turned his back to the scene. Bayard knew he was
abandoned and drowned.
The “Völsungensaga”
was my
first lesson in cosmology. I learned that the world was created from
the
corpses of the first sentient beings, a giant and his wife, killed by
the gods
of “Asgard,” the celestial
fortress. (And where did the gods come from? A goat had licked them out
of a block of salty ice. Sounds about right!) The Babylonians and the
Canaanites
have
told similar stories; traces of these are preserved in the Bible. "Tehom" (Gen.1: 2) the
dragon of water-world threatened to drown the
tribe of the Elohim (a
plural but not the Pluralis
Majestatis) in high heaven. So
the
warlike "Yahweh" the god
of thunder, mounted his chariot and assailed Tehom with hail
and
lightning. He slew Tehom’s son “Leviathan,”
and cut to pieces an unidentifiable "Rahab" (Ps. 74: 14-15; 89: 9-10; Isaiah
51: 9-10). Like the gods
of the Völsungensaga, the Elohim then shaped
the Sun, the Moon, and the Stars from
the slain carcass, stretching out the skies like a tent cloth (Job 9: 7-8, 26: 5-10, 13). This
inaugurated the heroic age of
intercourse between the immortals and the daughters of men (Gen. 6: 4). I was nine, when I read
the Bible cover to cover out of sheer curiosity, nobody asked me to.
God’s
command not to “boil a kid in his
mother's milk” (Ex. 34: 26)
struck a sympathetic chord, but to see the Son of God curse a
fig tree
for not yielding fruit out of season still leaves me singularly
unimpressed. Everybody can destroy a tree; make it bloom
and yield, as Dionysus has done with the grapes of wine that would have been
the miracle.
Centuries
ago already, Emperor
Frederick II of Hohenstauffen (1194
– 1250) had shared with Sultan
Al-Kamil a
joke about “the three conmen, Moses,
Jesus and Mohammed.”
After my
second small
pocks vaccination I ran a high fever and became delirious, holding on
with both
hands to a copy of Charles Dickens' Oliver Twist. In panic my
mother
called our practitioner from across the street, Dr. Löw. With some
difficulty she
pulled the book out of my hands and I never finished it. I still find
the gloom
in Dickens overpowering, this “soft black drizzle, with flakes of soot in
it as big as full-grown snowflakes – gone
into mourning, one might imagine, for the death of the sun” (Dickens, Bleak House). At
the
age
of
twelve,
I
began
reading
my first real philosopher, Plato,
and
developed a habit of sleeping in the buff under open window curtains.
In the
light of the stars I dreamed of suntanned Greeks debating ‘arete’
and
‘eros’ under
marbled porticos and a blazing blue sky. I mused over Plato’s
archetypes, a sort of
transcendental
cookie cutter. I still sleep in the buff, but my infatuation with Plato
has faded since I’ve discovered why he was the Nazi’s favorite Greek:
Plato was a proponent of star chambers, censorship, mandatory cadet
schools, marching
bands and the breeding of the blondest. I moved on to Bernard
Mandeville (1670 –
1733), Confucius (551 –
479 BC) and Niccolò
Machiavelli (1469 –
1527).
After school and during the holidays we
kids used to be away from home all day long. I
often
missed the curfew and got a good talking-to.
One
day, already running late, I was about to cross the street and had no
eyes for
the lorry rushing at me from the left. It would have squashed me to
pulp had
not from behind the hand of a stranger grabbed my arm. A matter of
split
seconds – I came sooo close, I could feel the vehicle’s slipstream
pulling me towards the road. Then the anonymous hand loosened its grip
and the
hyperactive boy scooted across the street without even looking back or
saying a
word of thanks. I never told my parents. But should the person who
saved my
life read this, I extend a belated, a very belated, “thank
you.” Bless you Sir, or Madam. May you live long and prosper.
Thankfully there were not too
many inquiries about my whereabouts.
Almost every day our gang used to
meet on
the river under the weeping willows. The girls were at least as
intrepid as the
boys. As a test of mettle we crossed an out-of-town bridge on the
outside of
the handrail; lose your grip and you drop ninety feet into shallow
waters, the
rapids running only inches over the rocks. Not that we didn’t
appreciate the
danger. One of us, and it wasn’t one of the girls, looked down and
froze and it
took some coaxing to get him to the other end. With
our bicycles we toured the hamlets, straining upwards towards the Alps.
Late in
afternoon we turned our bicycles around and trundled down the falling
altitude,
barely stepping into the pedals. On weekends I was allowed
to stay up late and
father and son bonded over a common interest in astronomy.
My father was an
engineer and was never shy to express a healthy
disrespect
for academic and metaphysical baloney. Engineering has to get it right
or the wheels
won’t spin. So, pretty early I came to the realization that this
Universe is a
tad too vast, to be “created,” although the element of time may raise
questions
about the odds of things to happen, even if it is a very old Universe. Partly this is, because most of us don’t
understand the nature of chance.
When you play the lottery your
chance of hitting the jackpot is a very, very
long shot, but the more players
participate, the odds for somebody to
win shrink in inverted
proportion. In other words, the critics of evolution base their doubts
on an
anthropocentric bias. So, before we get all giddy over some or other “anthropic principle” – the alleged “fine-tuning”
of the Universe to our needs – somebody better explains why he thinks
it is not
we who are fine-tuned to given conditions. My father began seeing in me a budding
engineer. It was a
real disappointment for my
old man when in the end classicism got the better of me. I fell under
the spell of C. Schneider’s hymn on the Hellenistic
world in
two mighty tomes (Kulturgeschichte
des
Hellenismus,
2
volumes,
Munich
1967
–
1969), the book has never lost
its lure, even now when
this glow lingers on only as a distant memory.
In
the last year at grammar school, four of us graduates began pooling
funds for
an old Mercedes. We planned to take the route through the Balkans,
Anatolia and
Iran to Katmandu, then sell the car and from the proceeds pay for the
flight
home. That was before the Russians had invaded Afghanistan.
On
the way we stopped at the ruins of Persepolis, the old capital of King
Cyrus (580 –
529 BC). A barren
plane, the sun beating down on solitary columns and the denuded
"cella" of the royal audience hall; in the cloudless sky a huge bird
is drawing circles. Once floor long silk curtains, translucent and
flapping in
the wind, had shielded the King of Kings from the glare, the dust and
the heat.
The people here were poor but hospitable and always up in arms over
some
age-old feud, trading bullets from rooftop to rooftop because once upon
a time
the one guy's granddaddy had had the temerity of leering at the other
guy’s
granny when she was washing her face; a story without a happy ending.
The
village elders invited us to a meal and our guide motioned to the roofs
to
cease firing and let us pass. They had cooked a sheep’s head and
offered the
best part – the eyes – to the guest of honor: me. Soon after, I
fell ill and had to say good-bye to my companions and take the plane
from
Kabul. I never made it to Katmandu.
Back
home I first went into advertising and then studied French history
before I
dropped my somewhat superfluous thesis on Cardinal Richelieu and after
consultations with my professor switched to Roman archeology and
English
literature. At night I worked shifts as a subeditor for a tabloid,
helped along
with uncounted cups of strong coffee. Psychologists on the campus paid
me a fee for serving as guinea pig in
their
studies on sleep deprivation. I saw spider webs in every corner and
expected
the walls to warp under my touch. In the foliage of the trees and in
the grain
of my wooden furniture I saw elfin beings peek at me; I flinched from
the
imaginary swipe of
fluttering
hair on my face.
During
my
final
semester
I
assisted
in
Yugoslavia
at
the
excavation
of
a
“Mithreum” – a
chapel of
Mithras – the bull slaying redeemer of the Roman soldier, and then
joined
a team in Tunisia and Morocco, mapping and photographing Roman
epigraphs for a new survey.
A
veteran of the French legion assisted the
team, liaising with the authorities and the natives. In
his youth he had joined
the Legion the old-fashioned way; he was seventeen when recruiting
officers had shanghaied him from a coal mine across the border.
That was
his story and he stuck to it. Now he looked forward to retirement and a
little
home in the Loire Valley. He introduced me to a sheikh (or “Amenokal”)
of
the
Touareg.
They
call
themselves
the
“Imouhar,” the free
people. A formal visit was arranged; I showered and in my best outfit
drove to
the camp, accompanied by the veteran as the interpreter. The reception
was
friendly and I was invited to have a bath before the meal. I said,
I had
already showered, but what the Veteran translated as my reply made
these people smile. I was led to a
man-sized
cauldron with a blazing fire underneath and was asked to undress. Was I
to
become the meal’s main course?
Water
is on a premium in the Sahara, and only a shallow puddle steamed at the
bottom
of the bathtub, practically singeing my testicles. A man with a
couple
of missing teeth in his smile helped me clambering into the tub. As I
soon realized, he had a pair of
very
strong hands.
Without
using soap he began massaging the dirt out of my epidermis. It was a
humbling
experience, even with the excuse of an hour’s drive through the desert
in an
open jeep. I thought I was clean, but the man collected from my skin a
ball of
gunk the size of a walnut. The following meal was a spicy affair, but
the
legionnaire’s experience got me through this: don’t try washing down
the heat
in your mouth with water; instead ask for bread and chew it slowly! The
meal
ended with tea in tiny thimbles, the kind hat enables you to
speak
fluently in fourteen languages at once.
After graduation I had to make a choice. A
manufacturer
of chemical products offered a position with the opportunity for
worldwide
travels on expense account. I took it.
Before I could
go on the road my contract required me to do six months in research and
development. So I donned a white smock and checked in into the
laboratory on a
Tuesday. Chemistry had always been my least loved subject before an
informal
chat with a physicist (sic!) had opened my
eyes.
Chemists never speak about electrons on the outer shell of an atom. But
chemistry, it seems, is all about the right number of these electrons
when
atoms interact. The researchers in the lab were after a new
photosensitive
compound and by trial and error the team tabulated
and tested dozens of
substances according to their “radicals,” the little dot to the right
of the
symbol, and this over and over again. I was ready to do what I was
hired for.
My first
assignment was a client in communist Czechoslovakia. In my company
car I
entered the outskirts
of Prague almost at
midnight. I knew that a hotel
room was
waiting for me, a moldy time capsule of gilded elegance in scarlet
velvet. Nimbly threading my way through the suburbs I approached the
lights of the downtown when
suddenly I was caught on a crossroad that seemed to receive one-way
lanes
from
every possible direction. It was eerily quiet.
Prague is the
hometown
of the
writer Franz Kafka and the moment gave a whole new meaning to the word
"Kafkaesque." I tried backing
out, but I already knew what was going
to happen next. There would be a cop waiting to give me a ticket. And
so it was.
Motioned to
wind
down the window, I got a nose full of exhalations from a cigarette and
the sour scent of stale beer. The man steadied himself
with
one hand on the roof of my car. The law clearly was in need of a shave,
but he
was the authority, and I understood that there was no point in
protesting my
innocence. So I paid and didn’t ask for a receipt. Lost in thoughts the
man
continued holding on to the roof. I waited. At last he took off his
hand and
gave way. The film director Milos Forman used Prague as location for
his film Amadeus. Most of the extras on his set came
from the secret police. They were in it for the American cigarettes and
the
cans of
pineapple. Time and again Milos had to remind
his American crew to “forget logic! This is Czechoslovakia.”
Actually
Forman
used
the
wrong
term.
It
was
not
the
lack
of
logic
that
was
worrying.
The
next
day,
my
contacts
directed
me
into
a
yellow
haze
of
dust.
It
came
from
factory
stacks
and
burning
dumping pits, which surround
Prague with
a ring of sulfur, like a circle from Dante’s hell.
My assignment in Prague was followed by
travels to Italy, Portugal and Spain. In a
restaurant in Madrid I shook hands with a man in an expensive suit, a
bit on
the stocky side, well fed, soft skinned, articulate, a handshake like a
wet
sponge. He arrived in a motorcade and introduced himself under a
generic name
– “Senior Muños.” Everybody
else in the room knew him as the king’s chief of security. Before the
soufflé
he passed around the table his identity card and his Beretta. The
document
showed his photograph and a number with an endless row of zeros
followed by a
six at the end. This seemed to be the point. Only the royal family had
figures
that low on their ID. The Beretta was a macho thing. They do this in
those
countries. After this encounter my firm thought I was ready to
represent them
in Los Angeles. I landed for a stopover in New York and decided to
travel the
remaining distance by car on the Interstate 80. I wanted to see
America. A
friend provided me with an old Cadillac. She
was put together from two wrecks from the fifties and although the
paint was
not great – I would lie if I said it was pink – the tail fins were
as flashy as ever. She got me safely across the continent, although the
handwritten license plate on a piece of red cardboard in the rear
window raised
more than one patrol officer’s eyebrow; but it was perfectly legal.
In Los Angeles, I lined up to open a bank
account; I presented my
passport to
the girl at the counter and received a lecture that in America only the
driver’s license is a “proper ID.”
This settled, I went out for a quick lunch. What seemed a humble
hot-dog-stand turned out to be a gathering of the
rich and beautiful; reclining in their Lincolns and
Porsches, they ate, dripping
relish and mustard on their diamond rings.
I retired the Cad for a Buick Skylark, red as a fire engine, and
scheduled a weekend for
a much-anticipated trip to Nevada.
Colleagues
had
warned
me
of
patrol
cars
lurking
to
catch
you
speeding.
Yet
on
this
night
a
car
studded
with
antennas,
like
a
porcupine
with
spikes,
was
overturning
me,
tailgated
by an entire
convoy
tooting their horns to fall in with them. The porcupine in front
carried
illegal radar
detecting equipment. From far
away Las
Vegas floated on the horizon
like an illuminated airstrip. Our
convoy
arrived
in
Vegas
at
about
ten
o’clock. That
night I was determined to make ten thousand dollars at the roulette.
That was my
target.
Oh I
was good! I understood the game. I knew the percentages; I could set
myself targets. I started
with five hundred and
in no time I’d piled up stacks of chips, worth a trifle more
than five thousand. It should have been the signal to leave and had I
done so I
probably
would still be gambling. I didn’t of course.
The
croupier and I were the only people at this table. I had a target.
The croupier looked at me and barely noticeable shrugged his shoulders
when I
placed my next bet. Two hours later I left the Casino without my
American
Express card. Cold turkey. Never again the clinking of chips and the
nervous
patter of little thuds hurtling across the crap table. No more
sympathetic
noises from the young man next to me who says he admires my game. A
typical
night on the strip. The trance of neon lights, people sliding by in
their cars
like in a fluorescent fish tank. The chills after the adrenaline crash
when
stepping out into the street. The aimless walk before backtracking to
the car
park. A drop of water from some air-conditioner hitting the face. I
still had a
car key and a car fitting to the key. Back in L.A., I was offered a
career
change and for a moment it got me thinking. The man offering had the
looks of Mahatma Gandhi – without the
loincloth.
Gandhi
owned five houses with a Jaguar in each garage. He was
married to a
woman in her first pregnancy; there was a blonde mistress and her just
born
baby, and a Japanese ex-wife, the mother of an already married son, who
was
serving with the Marines. There was Kirby, the Doberman. They all were living within a mile’s
distance
of each
other, helping one another changing diapers and buying a dress for the
party
tonight. Gandhi’s firm was registered in Switzerland. Most of his
business he
conducted from his fax machine in the bedroom. Do you need a tank or a
fighter
plane? Gandhi is your man. For handguns go to Walmart.
In the end I
thought
the better of the offer and stuck with my employer. He sent me on a new
assignment
to South East Asia and China. I met my wife and settled
down, teaching and studying.
China
inflicted
a bit of a culture shock. At moments I found myself lost in the
streets, surrounded by a chaotic congestion of screeching traffic, of
shop signs I couldn’t read, of disintegrating concrete and an
unspeakable, roach infested ugliness in the utilitarian architecture.
Yet after midnight the city was able to exude
an
intoxicating magic. We toured the abandoned streets on our scooter, a
red Vespa, the drifting
dust from
the numerous construction sites had settled, and despite, or perhaps as
an
effect of the polluted air, the krypton lights disseminated the gentle
luster
of a gigantic jellyfish hovering in the greenish, slightly hazy,
translucence
of the sky, dangling countless tentacles onto the empty playgrounds.
Now and
then we stopped there for a moment on the swings; from the chains our
hands
rubbed off the slimy sweat of the big city. At this late hour even the
home was
quiet. Chinese families are a noisy and temperamental affair; the
headlight
over the door to your room is left open, the clan would be very unhappy
should
one of their own drift out of earshot. In the eighties privacy was
still a
foreign concept for China.
Among
the colony of expatriates I made the acquaintance of a Jesuit from
Australia.
He helped me to find my way through the Chinese classics. I learned to
respect the Jesuit’s touch in these matters. Orality
and
Literacy by Walter J. Ong SJ (1912 –
2003) is a book
I return to, time and again.
The
one
Chinese
writer
I consider as an absolute must-read is the Han
historian
Ssu-ma Ch‘ien (Sima
Qian, 145 – 90 BC), a
stupendous storyteller. His emperor gave him a rough deal. Ssu-ma stood
up
defending the integrity of a colleague in office and was neutered for
his temerity. Ssu-ma wrote before the innovation of ink and
paper. With untiring patience, his clerks singed signs with read hot
needles onto uncounted slabs of bamboo, 1,500,000 words altogether.
Ssu-ma was not your typical Confucian gentleman, uptight, polished and
slightly bigoted. He was a sensitive individual with loyalty high on
his agenda. His was a life under tight supervision. A court official
was confined to a dormitory and given leave only once every five days
to wash his hair. He did not think of his treatment as an injustice; by
standing up for Li Ling, who was not even his friend, Ssu-ma knew he
had it coming, and his refusal to commit “honorable” suicide marked him
as an outcast in the eyes of his peers. Yet he could not bear the
thought to leave his work unfinished.
My favorite Chinese poet is Su Tung-po (1037
– 1101) – his penname; his
real name is Su Shih – a
free spirit as far as this is possible in China. He also was the
political
adversary of the economist and reformer Wang An-shih (1021 –
1086). Wang
achieved the rare feat of being hailed as a political forerunner on
both sides
of the Taiwan Straits. His intrusive paternalism was right down the
lane of
Chiang Kai-shek and Mao Tse-tung. Yet instead of easing the burden for
the
peasantry, his measures achieved exactly the opposite and the
impoverished
farmers abandoned their fields causing a countrywide famine. Wang
retired from
office.
It
was nine o’clock in the evening after rush hour.
The street
under the
window was empty and barely lit. My wife should
have
been home for over an hour; I decided
to take a
leisurely walk into the direction from which I was expecting her
arrival. Half a mile down the road, the street was
utterly desolate, except for a parked pickup with a load of protruding
scaffolding poles. Behind the pickup was a large
puddle on the tarmac that looked like axle grease. I noticed a mangled Vespa on
the sidewalk and suddenly realized I'd stepped into the puddle.
A friend – the chief surgeon of the local
university clinic – helped searching for my wife in the hospitals up
and down the city. We found the morgue holding her remains; her upper
body was left covered; they said it would be better not to look at her
face.
In 1991 I returned to England and settled
in Neasden, London, where H.G. Wells says the Martians had landed. In
1997 I began corresponding with the person who is my sweetheart and
whom I have to thank that this website ever materialized. Dawn and I
first moved to Florida and in the year after 9/11 we went back to
England, and, with the blessing of the immortals, we shall live happily
ever after.
Our first apartment overlooked the River
Thames, a hundred yards away from the crypt where Pocahontas is laid to
rest. We now live in a place looking out on tall trees fringing the
road with the squirrels leaping across between the treetops.
© – 1/1/2010 – by
michael sympson, 7,150 words,
all rights reserved
To be continued – perhaps